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Saturday, May 14, 2011

Day 66 (Monday). Last day in Budapest

My last day already in Budapest. I have really liked it here, and it is hard to decide what to do, as there is so much more here than I had realized.

So first, I found a nice sidewalk cafe where I could eat breakfast and plan my day.

After dropping a box off at the post office (all of that shopping with Cynthia in Russia was weighing me down :-), I headed back to the Central Market. I didn't feel like I got enough time there the other day, plus it looked like it was the best place to pick up a few little mementoes (after all, I had just emptied my suitcase). I had planned to have lunch there as it was touted in every guide book, and by my walking tour guide, as the place for lunch....unfortunately since everyone reads the guide books, everyone was there...It was too crowded with tourists, so I decided to pass on that experience. And uh oh, I now needed to head back to my hotel to lighten my backpack.

So I opted for lunch on the Danube promenade, which gave me a good last look at the Royal Palace on the Buda side of the river..








This palace was originally built in the 1300's by then King Bela IV to protect the city from invading armies. It was rebuilt in the mid1400's by King Matyas, but it experienced extensive damage and deterioration during the Turkish siege of the country in the 16th century. It eventually became the Hungarian palace of the Habsburgs, who ruled over Austria-Hungary for about 100 years, starting with Maria Teresa in the mid1700's. Then it was totally gutted by the Germans during WWII. So there is really nothing to see inside, although there are a couple of museums there, including the history museum which I would have liked to have seen...but not enough time here.

After lunch, it was time for a visit to one of the baths. Budapest has 120+ natural springs. When the Turkish ruled, they excavated these springs and built several Turkish baths in the city. Because I didn't have enough time to venture too far away, I went to the Gellert baths...








...which were close by, and are supposed to be the prettiest. After checking in, I proceeded to walk through the labyrinth of hallways....down and up and through long hallways....









...it is literally a labyrinth as there are caves running everywhere under the city. I was starting to freak out, as there were no signs, no other people, and I was starting to feel lost. I finally walked into a room that looked like a locker room....but wasn't sure if it was for men or women....then was relieved when I saw a couple of women. But I was still clueless about how it all worked. The two women, who were from Sweden, said they had the same problem when they arrived, and proceeded to "show me the ropes" -- how to use the lockers, where the thermal baths were, where the swimming pool was. (Later, when I was leaving, there were two other women who were experiencing the same confusion, so I was able to return the favor and help them out). I heard this same complaint from others, so I recommend trying one of the other bath houses, such as Szechinyi which is at the end of Andrassy Street. I recommended going there to the Portuguese couple, and they loved it...said the people were very friendly and helpful, unlike those at the Gellert.

But, the Gellert lived up to it's reputation of being beautiful...



















The outdoor pool has one of the first wave machines to have been installed...


























It would have been a great place to hang out all day or for at least a full afternoon, especially on such a beautiful day....I only hung out for about an hour.

I had planned to go to the Parliament building, as the walking tour guide had said it was worth the tour. But when I walked out of the baths, it was such a beautiful day, so I didn't want to be inside. I noticed a walkway that led up the hill, so I thought I would check it out. It was a long walk, and I was alone most of the way, except for the occasional lovers sitting on benches placed at lookouts along the way....but the views along the way were spectacular...






























...until I reached the citadel, where this statue is placed at the top of the hill...Hungarians consider this their "lady of liberty."



The citadel itself was built to intimidate the Hungarian revolutionaries; it now honors all of those who lost their lives during WWII. I didn't go inside as there were buses and buses of people.

I stopped and asked a photographer if there was a way back down the hill on the other side. He was shocked that I had walked up...he didn't even know you could get there, except by bus. He was from London, and we got into a discussion about my trip, of which he was quite intrigued (as are most people I run into :-). So he provided a little fun and respite, before I proceeded to walk back down on the other side of the hill, to even more great views...



I wasn't sure what thus big red brick building was, but had to be something important...






This looked like an expensive residential comdo-type development tucked up on the hill...someone was pulling into their garage when I went by...










This monument anchors the other end of the citadel...




That ended up being a wonderful spontaneous walk, but now I have to hop back on the #2 tram...


(which runs along the Pest side of the river with great views of Buda, and which I used often to get around). I had to get back and cleaned up for my dinner reservation, back at my favorite place, Tigris, for my last evening in Budapest!

Tomorrow, off to Vienna!

Blogspot issues

The website has been experiencing problems since Thursday, so I've been unable to post to my blog. They say it is now back up, but it is not interfacing with my blogpress whiCh allows me to upload photos. I am not sure if and when they will resolve this problem. I have been unable to find a way to even get in touch with them.

Anyway, hi from Vienna.


Thursday, May 12, 2011

Day 65 (Sunday). Mothers Day in Budapest.

After two long, exhausting days, I opted for some time to rest on Sunday (in honor of Mother's Day). Happy Mother's Day all you moms out there....including my own mom, of course!!

After some rest, I did take a walk up Andrassy Street, which is known as Budapest's Champs de Élysées...a wide boulevard...









...with shopping....








...with many cool, old buildings...









...although this one was eerie...it is a museum about the war, and is apparently gruesome, which is why I skipped it...

















More in line with my tastes was the Hungarian opera house, where I will be seeing Otello this evening...








...with its statues of the local composers, Liszt....








...and Erkel...









...and the side door for your horse and carriage...








There were statues everywhere along the boulevard...

















...and at the end, part of the reason it is compared to that famous street in Paris...








...including museums on each side of the square...

















I also walked up and down some of the side streets here which is considered the Jewish district, and a great place for free, live music every night of the week!








I was now running late for Otello, so needed to catch the metro back....it is the oldest metro system in Europe, and there was a metro stop immediately in front of my hotel.








After getting cleaned up....I really do wear clothes other than my jeans....








...I hopped back on the metro to the opera house. I was pleasantly surprised by both the opera house and the performance. The building was maybe the most ornate opera house I had yet seen. It had a lobby that was even more ornate than the theater. Cynthia, I don't remember the one in St. Petersburg having such an ornate lobby? I had a seat in the 11th row, and I ran into the couple from Portugal from my cooking class. The acting, singing, costumes, sets, etc., were all excellent. So another fun evening out in Budapest.

I also grabbed dinner afterwards at Callas (as in Maria) next door to the opera house. They had some live hungarian music, but I didn't like the food that much. Especially since I now know how good Hungarian food is supposed to taste.

Tomorrow is my last day in Budapest, and there is so much more I want to do here!!

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad


Location:Erzsébet tér,Budapest,Hungary

Day 64 (Saturday). Budapest cooking school.

I woke up this morning, believe it or not, without a major hangover :-). But I won't be doing that any time again soon.

As I mentioned, I have a Hungarian cooking class scheduled for today, so am very excited about that. We are to first meet at the market for a Hungarian breakfast and to explore Hungarian ingredients before heading to our class.

I arrived early, so had time to catch some photos of the bridge near the market, which was one I had not yet seen...








....take a picture back up the Danube towards the Royal Palace on the Buda hill...


...and take photos of some of the interesting buildings in this neighborhood...





...these were the ornaments on a museum next door which currently has an Egypt exhibit. I probably wouldn't have noticed that, except that I was to have been in Egypt right now!


...as well as take photos of the outside of the market building...





There was another person standing at the meeting place, so I wondered if he was there for the class too. When Violet, the "chef," arrived, sure enough, Marcus was waiting for her too. Marcus is a chef from Chicago who is interested in learning more about international cuisines. (It was easy to remember his name, as he did remind me of the Marcus whom many of you know and love!).

Violet explained that the market was initially an open air market, and that the building had been built in the late 1800's to house the market, more like he markets in other European cities at the time. When first built, it had a wide center aisle which was for the tourists...


the right hand aisle catered to the wealthy, and the left hand aisle was for the peasant class. Now it is all mixed together, and there is no longer any such distinction.

We started out looking at the pastries, and first chose a cherry pie for our breakfast...


Then we went upstairs and we bought another typical breakfast item, the lango, which is basically "fried dough," with sour cream, garlic and cheese...


(I was remembering the statue of the fat policeman from yesterday!!).

To finish off our breakfast, we ordered COFFEE....that was something I needed for my slight hangover :-) I thought the pie was too sweet, at least for breakfast, and the lango had too much garlic!! Plus, I was having visions of looking like this...


This is how they eat!! Way too much sugar, fat, salt!! Bob (at H3), you would have been cringing!!

Then off through the market to see the typical Hungarian ingredients. First, don't forget the paprika...They put it in everything, in very large quantities...


...some of them even grind it themselves from the actual peppers...


And don't forget the fat, here on the left...do people still cook with lard in the US?(probably)...


Pickled items are also a big item....


Then, they do have some wonderful fruits and vegetables...


...the asparagus was in season, and wonderful...


...and the strawberries were great,too...


...and no Hungarian kitchen is complete without sausages...


...or alcohol...


...so I was starting to feel that this cuisine was not going to be for me, but now it was time to go to the kitchen and get started..


Besides Marcus, the class included a couple from Portugal and a mother/daughter from Florida (they had not done the market option). Marcus and I were paired up....I didn't get a great photo of him, as he was tall, and I kept cutting off his head (sorry, Marcus :-)...


...and we were a good team....chop, chop....for our potato with beef soup and our chicken paprika...


Violet was trying to show us here how sticky the dumpling mix should be...


...and we all chipped in to help...


And believe it or not, the food was absolutely delicious....especially the chicken paprika....as well as the dessert pancakes we made at the end.


(I forgot to have someone take a picture of me--oh, well,later). We also got to try some sour cherry soup that another class had made....would make a good dessert, although they serve it as an appetizer.

Violet was a great teacher (she is majoring in nutrition, so she is aware of the changes that need to be incorporated into the Hungarian diet), and Marcus was a great partner. What great fun! (oh, and we did try more and more Hungarian wines :-)...but I passed when we got to the Palinka and Tokaji).

Time for a rest before heading out to a concert at the new Belo Bartok National Concert Hall...





This hall was yet one more bridge away...


The acoustics in this hall were amazing. I couldn't take a photo but found one online...


The wooden slats in the ceiling had something to do with the acoustics. Anyway, I saw Dianne Reeves, a phenomenal jazz singer with a range from bass to soprano, and it sounded like a small club rather than a huge hall. She even walked away from her mike at one point, and you could still hear her throughout the hall. And the seats were wide and padded and extremely comfortable for a concert hall. So a great evening out!

Beddy bye time (no need for dinner)....it's been a long day!

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Erzsébet tér,Budapest,Hungary